Terroirist reviews the wines
By Isaac Baker, July 29, 2022
I’ve been a fan of Lake County’s Hawk and Horse for years, so I was excited to taste their 2019 offerings. Especially considering the winery didn’t produce any wines in 2018 due to wildfires. Luckily, they’re back to form with their consistent, small-lot Bordeaux reds, which are sourced from the winery’s 18-acre estate vineyard, sitting at 1,800 to 2,000 feet with some steep slopes. The rocky, red volcanic soil and terroir here offer a signature fresh acidity that complements the dark fruit and pronounces spice tones very well. If you haven’t ventured far into Lake County wines, this is a great biodynamic producer to get to know.
2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petit Verdot – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
91 points: Dark purple color. A deep core of roasted figs, plum sauce, along with charcoal, graphite, tilled soil, coffee grounds, violets – needs air to coax out the depths. The palate shows a solid core of roasted figs and currant paste, grippy tannins, moderate acidity, impressive balance and complexity. Cool mix of spicy and refreshing elements, and I get a lot of mesquite, tar, graphite, roasted red peppers and gravelly earth. A long-ager for sure. Don’t be scared of PV – this is delicious stuff! All Petit Verdot aged in 100% French oak.
2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petite Sirah – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
91 points: Deep purple color. The nose shows a nice mix of tangy plums and blueberries, with spicy pepper, anise, some coffee, toffee and mocha. Nice grip on the palate but the tannins have these suave edges and the acidity is really nice, balancing out the deep plum and currant fruit. Notes of black olive, tar, mocha, black pepper and bell pepper add complexity, and I love the deep, earthy, mineral and stony vibes in here. There’s a ton of freshness in here for a Petite Sirah. This puppy will age wonderfully. All PS aged in all French oak.
2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $75
92 points: Medium purple color. Deep but tart aromas of blueberry and black cherries, with complex, deep and spicy tones: tar, mocha, sage, sweet red pepper, black pepper and balsamic glaze. The palate is full but smooth and, like the others, this wine’s acidity is really nice. Tangy plums and juicy black currant fruit blends well with leather, paprika, black pepper, spicy tobacco, mint. A lot going on, and I’d like to see this in five or six years. Cab Sauv with 2% Petit Verdot, aged in 100% French oak.
2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Franc – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
91 points: Deep purple color. The nose sports mulled cherries and deep currant fruit, with a spicy mix of anise, black pepper, tar, leather and espresso. Full but fresh, this shows solid grip but smooth edges to the tannins and moderate acidity. The fig paste and cranberry relish fruit is delicious, and it’s backed up with tar, anise, cocoa, sweet bell pepper, chewing tobacco and some black olive. Really fun and lively but also pretty, complex and age-worthy. All Cab Franc aged in 100% French oak.
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