2019 Red Hills Lake County Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon Sparkling Wine
By James Melendez
93 points
2019 Red Hills Lake County Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon Sparkling Wine
By James Melendez
93 points
From the estate’s 18-acre biodynamic mountain vineyard at 2,00o feet elevation, we are constantly in awe of the dynamism of these wines. Starting with rocky, red volcanic soils and aged for 25 months in French oak, this small production red (95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot) offers up violets and iron on the nose. Chalky, dry cocoa-cherrywood tannins produce a thrilling mouthfeel. Muted dried blue flowers and Italian herbs are saturated by black cherry.
When you drink wine for pleasure (don’t take it for granted – there are many reasons why people drink wine – to fit into the crowd, to be socially accepted, to show your status – drinking for pleasure is only one of the reasons), mystery, art, magic – call it whatever way you want, but it all comes to a play when you take a sip. Wine is a complete mystery as you have no idea what will be your conscious and subconscious reaction to the experience of that sip – what memories will come to mind?
This wine is a special bottling that is different each year. It is unique because of the elevation, the soil, and the location. The aromatics are rich, Blackberry, Blueberry, cedar, and notes of caramelized vanilla beans on the nose; the flavors are concentrated Boysenberry, red currant confiture, dried thyme, intermingled with chicory, and leathery tannins on the mid-palate creating a mouth-watering finish. Decant and pair with smoked Maitake mushrooms, turnip puree, Black truffle jus
This Petite Verdot has a very fragrant nose with macerated black cherries and crème de cassis enveloped in a veneer of creamy oak that does not impede the fruit. The palate is full-bodied with a salacious dark, creamy cassis and chocolate-tinged fruit on the entry. It is beautifully balanced, with a long, sensual finish that demonstrates just what this esoteric variety can do in the right hands. It should last for 15 years in the cellar.
More elegant than blockbuster, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon is our favorite of the three vintages we tasted. The bouquet is redolent of dark cassis complemented by notes of earth and underbrush. There’s a lovely, silky texture to the mouthfilling palate and nice integration of blackberry fruit and toasted oak. The tannins are still youthful but ripe. A wine that will only improve with a couple of years bottle age.
This immense wine is wrapped tightly in tannins, holding the black currant and black cherry flavors firmly in check while a drying sensation puckers the palate. It has good focus and concentration underneath all that, which bodes well for aging.